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Hula and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance |
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| Wrench-Wench Home Page | Back to Hula and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance | ||||
Basic Maintenance Schedule
Here
is a basic schedule you can either print out or download and alter to
include the specs for your own bike. I recommend you print out your
final version and use it as a check list. Make notes on it, and keep it
in your Clymer or a maintenance log with all of your receipts,
etc. This will be a valuable record so you will always know the status
of your ride. Should you decide to sell your bike, this documentation
will help you to get the best possible price. Remember,
this is my schedule, use your bikes manual, advice of a mechanic you
trust, and your own common sense to work out a schedule that suits you
and your ride. I have not included the initial 600 mile service. For
that, refer to your manual. Adhering
to a regular schedule of maintenance will allow you to prevent problems
which could cost a lot of money or even hurt you., and will extend the
life of your motorcycle and preserve its resale value. |
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| Some Info About Tools | 
Wrenching aprons have big pockets to hold small parts and
tools. Stay cleaner and more professional looking, avoid lost parts!
Get
wrenching aprons here. |
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Before riding: This does not take as much time as it looks like. You’ll soon start doing it automatically as you get ready to ride. Eventually you won’t even realize you were checking out your bike unless something is wrong. If you ride frequently, like several times per day going to work, running errands, etc, you can do many of these checks at each re-fueling, instead. Stuff you will need: tire (air
pressure) guage _____ check tire pressure cold. Adjust to suit riding speed, load, road conditions _____ check brakes for solid feel, no “mushiness” in squeeze _____ check brake pedal play _____ eyeball brake fluid level _____ check throttle grip for smooth roll and “snap” in release _____ move bars side to side checking for smoothness, no tight spots or floppy spots _____ check lights: brake, blinkers, headlamp _____ check horn _____ listen for strange noises – check them out/get them fixed _____ check oil level, add as needed – if you need too often, get it fixed! _____ check fuel level! _____ check kill switch Weekly: During a
thorough cleaning is an excellent time do do all of
these checks. I firmly believe a bike (or any vehicle) should
be thoroughly cleaned on a weekly or at least bi-weekly basis to prevent
rust, and assure that it is in good working order. It is expecially
important to practice good regular maintenance on motorcycles as if
something goes wrong, you are far more at risk of injury than with most
other vehicles. Stuff you will need: tire guage _____ check tires for wear, damage _____ check tire pressure cold. Adjust to suit riding speed, load, road conditions _____ check brakes for solid feel, no “mushiness” in squeeze _____ check brake pedal play _____ eyeball brake fluid level _____ check throttle grip for smooth roll and “snap” in release _____ move bars side to side checking for smoothness, no tight spots or floppy spots _____ check lights: brake, blinkers, headlamp _____ check horn _____ listen for strange noises – check them out/get them fixed _____ check oil level, add as needed – if you need too often, get it fixed! _____ check fuel level! _____ check kill switch _____ check final gear oil level - shaft drive bike _____ clean and lube chain or inspect belt _____ check axels, suspension, control nuts, bolts and fasteners, tighten as needed
Every 2,000 Miles / Quarterly – whichever comes firstWhether or not you are riding the bike much, you
should continue to perform regular maintenance as the fluids and parts
continue to age. Once the bike has been fired up, chemical changes occur
in the oil and it begins to degrade some componants. If you will be
unable to do regular maintenance for an extended period, you should
“winterize” or prepare your bike for storage. Stuff you will need: tire guage _____ check tires for wear, damage, signs of age, replace as needed _____ inspect brakes _____ inspect brake fluid _____ inspect pads _____ check brakes for solid feel, no “mushiness” in squeeze _____ check brake pedal play _____ check throttle grip, freeplay for smooth roll and “snap” in release, adjust as needed _____ follow fuel lines and check for leaks (remember NO SMOKING or open flame near fuel system!!!!!) _____ make sure fuel valve operates smoothly _____ check fuel filter _____ check idle speed _____ check steering head - move bars side to side checking for smoothness, no tight spots, floppy spots, or “crunchy” spots _____ check axels, suspension, control nuts, bolts and fasteners, tighten as needed _____ check electrical system _____ check all cables, switches, etc. _____ check lights: brake, blinkers, headlamp _____ check fuse box, making sure it is clean and fuse holders are tight, not corroded _____ check horn _____ check kill switch _____ check spark plug gap, plug condition _____ listen for strange noises – check them out/get them fixed _____ change oil and filter – examine oil for strange smells, foreign particles, or oddities _____ change final gear case oil - shaft drive bikes _____ clean and lube chain or inspect belt _____ check emission control system, if you have one Every 4,000 Miles / Annually – whichever comes firstBasically, just put the previous servicing on
steroids. Stuff you will need: tire guage _____ check tires for wear, damage, signs of age, replace as needed _____ inspect brakes _____ inspect brake fluid _____ inspect pads _____ check brakes for solid feel, no “mushiness” in squeeze _____ check brake pedal play _____ check and lube cables (teflon-coated cables may not require lubing) _____ check throttle grip, freeplay for smooth roll and “snap” in release, lube, adjust as needed _____ follow fuel lines and check for leaks, chafing, cracks, etc (remember NO SMOKING or open flame near fuel system!!!!!) _____ make sure fuel valve operates smoothly _____ check fuel filter _____ clean and inspect breathing system _____ air filter _____ hoses, check for damage, chafing, cracks, etc. _____ check connectors _____ check frame for rust, damage _____ check all associated parts for rust, damage _____ check steering head - move bars side to side checking for smoothness, no tight spots, floppy spots, or “crunchy” spots _____ check fork for leakage _____ check axels, suspension, control nuts, bolts and fasteners, tighten as needed _____ check all remaining nuts, bolts, add-ons, etc, tighten as needed _____ lubricate all pivot points _____ lubricate wheel bearings _____ check suspension/shocks for leakage _____ check electrical system _____ check battery, connectors _____ check all cables, switches, etc. _____ check lights: brake, blinkers, headlamp _____ check fuse box, making sure it is clean and fuse holders are tight, not corroded _____ check horn _____ check kill switch _____ replace spark plugs _____ listen for strange noises – check them out/get them fixed _____ change oil and filter – examine oil for strange smells, foreign particles, or oddities _____ change final gear case oil - shaft drive bikes _____ clean and lube chain or inspect belt _____ change brake fluid _____ change clutch fluid _____ check emission control system, if you have one Every 20,000 miles / Four Years – whichever comes firstIf you stay up on the rest of the maintenance, there really should not be too much to do. Just change a few hoses, which will age on you and probably have age-related damage you cannot see. If you are a low-milage rider, I would also change the tires at this point because they will have lost siginficant flexibility and grip, even if they still look good. Stuff you will need: tire guage _____ all 4,000 mile checks _____ replace fuel hoses _____ replace emission control hoses _____ replace hydraulic clutch hose assembly _____ replace all hydraulic hoses |
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Leilehua is Tutu (grandparent) to a
wonderful pre-schooler and can't wait to have him help her wrench her
ride!